Thursday, November 26, 2009

My Mom's Recipe for Turkey Tetrazzini

Wondering about good ways to use up leftover turkey? (Or leftover roast chicken?) Here's one recipe idea, an old favorite from my mother. It's home-cooking good and will be on the table in no time. And for anyone feeling less than svelte after the holiday? In Weight Watchers points, it's just six PointsPlus for a main dish serving, about as good it gets!

Turkey Tetrazzini, an old-fashioned recipe, leftover cooked turkey cooked in a creamy sauce with plenty of vegetables for color, texture and good health. Easily #GlutenFree. Another Quick Supper from #KitchenParade.

My home ec-teacher mom was my personal cooking help line, as much as it pained her to answer my some times clueless questions. You see, I’d been allowed to pass out of Foods I, the beginning high school cooking class she taught, straight into Foods II taught by another home ec teacher.

“Hello, Mom? How do I make … ”

From the other end of the phone came the audible sigh I’d come to expect. With each gap in my knowledge, she’d berate, “If you’d only taken Foods I.” Luckily, it became our little joke, a private moment of shared history.

Today’s young cooks have no idea what it’s like to face a mother like this. After all, we now have the Internet to answer cooking questions with no afternoons off to play bridge or objections to queries in the middle of the night.

Not long ago, a reader wrote, “I love your new recipes, especially the ones from your mother.” Between the lines I read, ‘more of your mom’s recipes, please!’

Well, this isn’t my mother’s recipe, per se, but only because she could make Whatever on Toast in her sleep and would never deign to write it down except perhaps in a lesson plan. I’d bet my best turkey stock it was a recipe she taught in Foods I. It’s quick, it’s thrifty, it’s eminently variable. It’s good ol’ plain home cooking and proud of it.

GLUTEN-FREE TURKEY TETRAZZINI To make Turkey Tetrazzini gluten-free, it's easy to omit the flour entirely. Just use two or three egg yolks instead of flour to thicken the creamy sauce. You'll need to "temper" the yolks though so they don't cook when hitting the hot liquid. To do this, whisk the yolks in a bowl, then whisk in a tablespoon or two of hot liquid at at time to the bowl until it's more liquid than egg yolk, then whisk the combined mixture into the skillet.

DAIRY-FREE TURKEY TETRAZZINI Use good chicken stock instead of milk for the sauce. If you can handle some dairy, stir in a splash of cream.

QUICK SUPPER RECIPE:
TURKEY TETRAZZINI on TOAST

Hands-on time: 20 minutes
Time to table: 20 minutes
Makes 5 cups
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 carrots, chopped small
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 ribs celery, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 2 cups milk (skim is fine, so is whole milk)
  • 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon thyme
  • 1/2 tablespoon good mustard
  • 3 cups cooked turkey
  • Salt & pepper to taste

In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil on medium high until shimmery. Add the carrots, onion and celery as they’re prepped and cook until just soft and turning golden. Stir in the flour and let cook for a minute, then slowly pour in the milk, stirring to incorporate all the while. Add the remaining ingredients and heat through.

Serve over toast, Fried Bread, curly egg noodles, cooked potatoes or Lighter Mashed Potatoes. To reheat, add a splash or two of milk to get the right consistency again.

ALANNA’s TIPS No turkey leftovers? Use leftover chicken or even a rotisserie chicken from the grocery store. I’ve bulked this up with vegetables but feel free to add even more. Mushrooms are traditional in tetrazzini. I like to throw in frozen peas at the end. Roasted peppers would be lovely, especially roasted poblanos. I see other recipes for tetrazzini that are fat, literally, with butter (a whole stick, why?) and cheese (it’s needed because why?) and cream. This is my virtuous version, perfect for post-holiday excess and still ever so satisfying.
Per Cup, not including toast: 238 Calories; 6g Tot Fat; 1g Sat Fat; 64mg Cholesterol; 179mg Sodium; 16g Carb; 3g Fiber; 10g Sugar; 28g Protein. WEIGHT WATCHERS POINTS WW Old Points 5 & WW PointsPlus 6 This recipe has been 'Alanna-sized' with reductions in fat and calories and increases in fiber-rich and low-calorie vegetables.
Kitchen Parade is written by second-generation food columnist Alanna Kellogg and features fresh, seasonal dishes for every-day healthful eating and occasional indulgences. In 2009, Kitchen Parade celebrates its 50th anniversary with a special collection of my mother's recipes. Do you have a favorite recipe using leftover turkey that other Kitchen Parade readers might like? Just send me a quick e-mail via recipes@kitchen-parade.com. Quick Suppers are Kitchen Parade favorites and feature recipes easy on the budget, the clock, the waistline and the dishwasher. How to print a Kitchen Parade recipe. If you like Kitchen Parade, you're sure to like my food blog about vegetable recipes, too, A Veggie Venture. Become a Kitchen Parade fan on Facebook!

More Recipes for Leftover Turkey

(hover for a description, click a photo for a recipe)
Turkey Wild Rice Casserole Turkey Salad Supper with Green Beans & Dried Cranberries Turkey Sweet Potato Soup

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Sunday, November 22, 2009

Recipe for Fresh Jellied Cranberry Sauce with Apple

Recipe for jellied cranberry sauce made with fresh cranberries and softly gelled with the natural pectin in apples. A perfect recipe substitute for cylinders of canned cranberry sauce all jiggly-wobbly with high-fructose corn syrup. Quick and easy and nothing – nothing – like canned cranberry sauce. No gelatin so naturally vegan.

Fresh Jellied Cranberry Sauce with Apple

The sad news that the pages of Gourmet shall go blank this month hit hard, like the loss of a family elder who seemed ready to live forever.

Looking back, it was Gourmet’s 1986 or 1987 Thanksgiving issue that first revealed to me the concept of simple food cooked well, and in season, that expresses the food sensibility I call my own today. Who needs a can of mushroom soup when it’s so easy to slice mushrooms for Homemade Mushroom Soup? Who wants a fridgeful of salad dressing when it’s so fast to mix a quick vinaigrette right in the salad bowl?

Twelve boxes (one for each month) of back issues are testament to a long affair with food magazines, Gourmet and its surviving sibling, Bon Appetit, but also Food & Wine, Fine Cooking and my current favorite for authentic traditional food, Saveur.

My one quibble with food magazines? The food looks so beautiful, all styled and perfect. For a home cook focused on getting slow people and a hot dinner to the table at the same time, attempts to replicate magazine perfection present one lesson after another in futility humility.

Take what I call Fresh Jellied Cranberry Sauce from Food & Wine, which seized my attention with beautiful presentation. (Take a minute to look, but then come back, don't worry, I'll wait.) Looks simple enough, yes? Well, take my word for it: the surface doesn’t gel that smooth, the loaf doesn’t slice and the edges get all melty.

Besides, isn’t the jellied cranberry beautiful as is, just in a bowl, garnished with cranberries and rosemary? Simple food, prepared well – plated simply – that’s my idea of ‘gourmet’.

Kitchen Parade is written by second-generation food columnist Alanna Kellogg and features fresh, seasonal dishes for every-day healthful eating and occasional indulgences.

RECIPE for
FRESH JELLIED CRANBERRY SAUCE
with APPLE

Hands-on time: 10 minutes plus another 20 minutes with occasional attention
Time to table: 4 hours
Makes 1-1/2 cups
  • 3/4 cup water
  • 12 ounces fresh or frozen cranberries, washed and picked over to remove any imperfect berries
  • 1 large tart apple (Gala, Granny Smith, Fuji or Braeburn, say), peeled, cored and chopped small
  • 1/2 cup – 1 cup sugar (see TIPS)
    For GARNISH
  • Additional fresh cranberries
  • Fresh rosemary sprigs

In a large pot or Dutch oven, combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat to maintain a slow simmer and cook, stirring often to avoid burning, until the cranberries are completely broken down, about 15 minutes. Let cool and turn into a serving dish, then cover and refrigerate. To serve, create surface texture with the tines of a fork, then top with fresh cranberries and rosemary.

VARIATIONS Stir in a little vanilla or grated orange zest after cooking – or wait, how about a splash of brandy? I told you this was nothing like canned cranberry sauce!

ALANNA’s TIPS The inspiring recipe called for a cup of sugar. My taste buds err away from sugar so I used just a half cup and found the jellied cranberry sauce plenty sweet.

NUTRITION ESTIMATE (How many calories in Jellied Cranberry Sauce? How many Weight Watchers points in Jellied Cranberry Sauce?) Per 2 tablespoons: 50 Calories; 0g Tot Fat; 0g Sat Fat; 0mg Cholesterol; 1mg Sodium; 13g Carb; 2g Fiber; 11g Sugar; 0g Protein; Weight Watchers 1 point
Adapted from Food & Wine, Thanksgiving issue 2009

In 2009, Kitchen Parade celebrates its 50th anniversary with a special collection of my mother's recipes. Do you have a favorite recipe that other Kitchen Parade readers might like? Just send me a quick e-mail via recipes@kitchen-parade.com. How to print a Kitchen Parade recipe. If you like Kitchen Parade, you're sure to like my food blog about vegetable recipes, too, A Veggie Venture.

Gourmet, Days Gone By


Recipe card noting interesting Gourmet recipes in the September 1992 issue

Just call me Mz Organizer: 3x5 index cards like this were my 'food magazine management' system for some years. First up, a short list of attention-getting recipes when an issue first came out, then notes when/if I actually made them. Gourmet won on all counts! I just looked up the recipes Gourmet's September 1992 issue on Epicurious, they 'still' appeal, even some 17 years later. I shall miss Gourmet, I shall.


More Recipes for Cranberry Sauce

(hover for a description, click a photo for a recipe)
Cranberry Orange Relish with Fresh Ginger Cranberry Chutney Fresh Jellied Cranberry Sauce with Apple (above)


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© Copyright 2009 Kitchen Parade



Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Apple-Butter Pumpkin Pie

A 'cousin' to Thanksgiving's apple pie and pumpkin pie, combining naturally sweetened apple butter and pumpkin purée in an easy press-in graham cracker crust and topped with dollops of whipped cream. The recipe comes from my family's cookbook, my sister says that people who don't like pumpkin pie (there are people who don't?! poor souls!) like this!

Apple-Butter Pumpkin Pie

Word on the street – wait, you know that today’s ‘street’ is Twitter, yes? – is that there’s a pumpkin shortage in 2009. Frantic bakers are searching from store to store, anxious to nab a can or two of pumpkin puree for Thanksgiving pies or a cartful for hoarding for year-round baking.

This pie weds apple butter with pumpkin, a happy marriage, creating a naturally sweet filling.

CAN WE MAKE A PIE WITHOUT SUGAR? The first time I made this pie, alors, no brown sugar in the house and no interest in substituting white sugar. A taste test was in order: good news, the unbaked filling mixture tasted plenty sweet. But could I really get away with making a pie without adding sugar? Was it possible to rely only on cider-sweetened apple butter and unsweetened pumpkin puree? I whisked that pie into the oven and sure enough, none of us missed the sugar in the filling, especially because it’s sandwiched between a sweet graham cracker crust and dollops of frothy whipped cream. That said, the second time I made the pie, I missed the sweetness – fixed by another dollop of whipped cream. Perfection.

My sister reports that people who don’t like pumpkin pie bite into this with approval. No such evidence in my life, everyone I know loves pumpkin pie!

ALANNA’s TIPS For apple butter, I’ve used both a no-sugar added commercial apple butter and my own recipe for Apple Butter that’s naturally sweetened with apple cider, not sugar. Graham cracker crusts have a tendency to burn along the top edge but this can be prevented by making sure the filling goes right to the top. If the edge happens to burn during baking, just scrape if off and cover up the evidence with whipped cream! The first time I baked this pie, it baked perfectly in 55 minutes. The second time, it needed another full 20 minutes in the oven for the color to darken in the center and the knife to come out clean.
Kitchen Parade is written by second-generation food columnist Alanna Kellogg and features fresh, seasonal dishes for every-day healthful eating and occasional indulgences. In 2009, Kitchen Parade celebrates its 50th anniversary with a special collection of my mother's recipes. Do you have a favorite recipe that other Kitchen Parade readers might like? Just send me a quick e-mail via recipes@kitchen-parade.com. How to print a Kitchen Parade recipe. If you like Kitchen Parade, you're sure to like my food blog about vegetable recipes, too, A Veggie Venture. Become a Kitchen Parade fan on Facebook!

RECIPE for
APPLE-BUTTER PUMPKIN PIE

Hands-on time: 25 minutes
Time to table: 2-1/2 to 3 hours
Serves 8
    GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST
  • 5 tablespoons melted butter
  • 1-1/4 cup graham cracker crumbs
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
    FILLING
  • 2 eggs, whisked
  • 4 tablespoons (half stick) melted butter
  • 1/2 cup milk (skim milk is okay)
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon or baking spice
  • 2 cups no-sugar added apple butter (see TIPS)
  • 1 cup canned pumpkin purée
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar, optional (see LEFT)
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves (don’t skip)
  • 1/4 teaspoon table salt
    TOPPING
    (use half for enough whipped cream to dollop around the perimeter of the pie, the full amount for spreading across the top)
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1 tablespoon powdered sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat oven to 425F.

CRUST Combine crust ingredients in a bowl until sandy. Spread in the bottom of a shallow pie pan. With the back of a spoon, press up the sides of the pan, then evenly across the bottom. ‘Tighten’ the top edge with the side of a finger and the spoon. Chill while mixing the filling.

FILLING Mix filling ingredients well. Gently pour into the crust, filling right to the top (see TIPS).

BAKE Bake for 15 minutes. REDUCE HEAT to 350F, bake for an additional 50 – 75 minutes (see TIPS) until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool completely.

TOPPING With a mixer, whip the cream and other ingredients. Just before serving, spoon into a ziplock bag, snip off the corner and squeeze out in dollops around the edge. Otherwise, spread whipped cream evenly across the pie. Refrigerate until serving.

NUTRITION ESTIMATE
Per Slice with sugar and half topping ingredients/all topping ingredients: 354/408 Calories; 79/84g Tot Fat; 12/19g Sat Fat; 109/129mg Cholesterol; 287/292mg Sodium; 38/39g Carb; 1/1g Fiber; 33/34g Sugar; 3/4g Protein; Weight Watchers 13/15 points
Per Slice without sugar and half topping ingredients/all topping ingredients: 302/356 Calories; 79/84g Tot Fat; 12/16g Sat Fat; 109/129mg Cholesterol; 283/289mg Sodium; 25/26g Carb; 1/1g Fiber; 20/21g Sugar; 3/4g Protein; Weight Watchers 12/14 points
Adapted from a recipe from my sister Adanna published in our family cookbook. Thanks, 80KD!
NUTRITION NOTE Call me shocked at how calories add up in this pie. It’s one of the reasons why I so encourage other recipe publishers (the food magazines, the food network, and yes, food bloggers) to calculate nutrition information for their recipes. As long as I’ve been calculating nutrition estimates, every once in awhile, one takes me aback. THIS is one -- even with naturally sweetened apple butter and leaving out the added sugar and using half the whipped cream! Yikes! This pie is delicious and I do recommend it, taste-wise. For a lower-calorie pumpkin pie, see Honey Pumpkin Pie.

More Thanksgiving Pie Recipes

(hover for a description, click a photo for a recipe)
American Apple Pie How to Make Flaky Tender Pie Crust Pumpkin Pecan Pie
~ more pie recipes ~

Beyond Pie: More Thanksgiving Dessert Recipes

(hover for a description, click a photo for a recipe)
Pumpkin Bread Pudding Cranberry Apple Crisp Pumpkin Cheesecake Bars

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(helping home cooks save money on groceries)





© Copyright 2009 Kitchen Parade